17 AUG 2010

This morning we awoke to a wet campsite since it had been raining during the night. However, since the forecast was for rain with possible thundershowers we were happy with a bit of rain during the night. Packing the tent wet is never much fun, but we plan to camp tonight again so not a serious issue.

We walked back down to the beach to watch the waves for a few minutes and met a nice couple who have come to this area for years. They love the beach and that was evident as they sat in their chairs overlooking the beach. They were very informative of the area and suggested a couple of stops on our way around the park.

We left driving further north to complete the circumference of the park which took us almost to the top of Cape Breton but not quite. As we drove off from the camp we had the fortune to drive around a corner to find a bull moose grazing on the side of the road above on a bluff. We were not going so fast to be a problem to have stopped if he had been on the road, but because it was a corner I could not stop to get a picture. RATS!!! If you have ever driven these roads you know that there is no shoulder to pull off on.

 
We drove along the coastline with an occasional ocean view that again is something to be experienced and not explained. All around us is an environment that is harshly treated by the weather. The trees tend to be stunted and bare rock is exposed. We actually could best describe this as an alpine look.

Our first stop was to walk around the Lone Shieling which is a tract of land with 350 year old sugar maple trees and a replica of a Scottish Crofter’s hut.

 I never thought about it before but of course sugar maple trees must grow wild in some area and we found one. This grove is unique in that it is in an area where you would not expect them to grow but because it is tucked away in a sheltered and fertile valley it has flourished. We learned that maple trees will grow on the forest bed but will not really grow fast because they get so little light – the larger trees create too much shelter. When a older tree dies, then these small trees suddenly start to take over but this could mean they did not grow for years then suddenly it is their turn. There is also a lilly I would have loved to see in bloom but wrong time of year. The picture was very different.

From here we traveled on to the Skyline Hike (yes Cape Breton has one too) which is a hike that takes you out onto a rugged headland overlooking the gulf coast. This is a 9.2 km loop with very little elevation gain (about 400 ft). As we pulled into the parking lot we were surprised to see how many other people were on this trail. In fact we learned that it is one of the most popular. We had been warned about aggressive coyotes in the area that have been attacking single hikers and warned to carry a hiking pole and stay in a group of at least 2. However, there is active trapping and moving of them too. Apparently they suspect that the coyote has cross bred with a wolf or domestic dogs so are more aggressive than expected.

We were assured that on this trail it is very common to spot moose. We heard from a couple of other hikers who saw a bull moose and a park attendant who saw a cow and calf but we never saw anything.

The hike was really good but it was so hot and humid. I was glad that we were not doing a lot of climbing. We got back to the car and had to change shirts and sit in the air conditioner for a bit to cool off. Great hike though.

From here we traveled further to find a place to have a picnic lunch. The map showed a picnic site along the beach where there was swimming possible. So there we headed to only discover that it was really really not a good spot. The tables were barely standing and it was on gravelly soil. The beach was totally rocky and could be swam in I am sure but not by us. We ate there and then quickly moved on.

from the Internet

One of the most interesting things to learn is that Margaree Valley is a eastern Canadian larch tree area. The majority of the trees on the hills and in the valley are larches. One of the largests Larch furniture and manufacturer of larch wood is in this area. The larch is strong, rot resistant and plentiful so it is used on the exterior of buildings and outside structures.
 We think that with the maples and larches, this has got to be one of the most beautiful valleys in the fall. I am going to look for a picture on the internet so see is we are right.

Following the Cabot Trail is not difficult, just don’t try to figure it out from the maps. There are not many roads in Cape Breton, but there are a few intersections and the maps tend to ignore names and numbers so you really are not sure which junction to take. We had our GPS, maps, and road signs so managed with old and new technology to find our way to Baddeck to regain the 105 (Trans Canada).

From this point we were actually retracing our steps to Pictou or Caribou River to catch the ferry to PEI. We were a bit concerned about getting on at 6:15 so we tried to be there there by 5 (which we managed) only to discover that for some reason there were very few vehicles. We checked and this is unusual for this time of year. Now if you travel to PEI, know that there is no fees to get onto the island either by bridge or ferry. You will pay when you want to leave. Thus no reservations can be made to get to the island on the ferry, but of course if we wanted to leave by ferry we could.

We finally managed to get a tent site at the provincial park right by the ferry terminal, set up and took a HOT shower. We met our neighbours and sat around the campfire for awhile visiting. They are on their honey moon, and are from Ottawa. Both are from Quebec originally so are fluent in French and English. We wished them the best on the remainder of their holidays and enjoyed chatting.

Tomorrow is a tourist day in PEI so we will decide what to do in the am. Good night.